Responsible dog ownership means you pay attention to your surroundings when you’re out with your dog. You respect your own dog and other people’s dogs. You take others into account and prevent problems—by keeping your dog with you—and giving other dogs and people the space they need, using a leash where needed, and cleaning up after your dog. This is how people with and without dogs can live happily together. More understanding. Less hassle.

Key Topics

Dog Body Language

Dogs communicate with their bodies—posture, movement, eyes, mouth, ears, tail, and muscle tension show how they feel. Misreading these signals makes life harder for dogs and for people.

Always read them as a whole: canine body language is meaningful only in context.

Why this matters

Understanding these signals helps you:

prevent misunderstandings
reduce stress
build trust

What you can do

Learn your dog’s language!

Read multiple signals together, not in isolation.
What’s the context? In what situation is it happening?
Consider the individual and breed differences (age, health, breed, body type, and unique experiences—“their (Emotional) baggage”).

Reading emotions in your dog:

Relaxed
Curious
Playful
Uncertain
Stressed
Aggressive
Happy
Anticipating something
Alert
Afraid
Panicked
Frustrated / disappointed
Relieved
Disgusted / averse
In pain / uncomfortable
Protective of things (food/toys)
Affectionate / seeking contact
In prey drive
Unsure / mixed feelings
Overtired / overstimulated

Book

Doggie Language: A Dog Lover's Guide to Understanding Your Best Friend - Lili Chin

Dog Management

Dog management means setting up the environment and everyday situations so that desired behavior is easy, and unwanted behavior has little to no chance to occur. Management works alongside training: it makes the right choice the easy choice for your dog. What works depends on your dog and your situation.

Why this matters

It strengthens the bond between people and dogs. You help your dog feel safe (safe play, clear rules and boundaries).
It prevents stress. Fewer triggers and clear rules bring calm. Example: a designated rest spot when visitors come over.
It creates clarity. The dog knows what is and isn’t allowed. Example: shoes kept in a closed closet.
It prevents unwanted behavior. What you prevent, your dog doesn’t have to unlearn. Example: a baby gate between the kitchen and living room.
It makes good behavior easy. You design situations in which the dog can succeed. Example: choosing a quiet walking route.
It keeps people and dogs safe. Less risk of clashes, nipping, or bolting.
It supports learning. In a calm, predictable environment, training sticks better.
It protects energy and recovery. Enough sleep and breaks help your dog stay steady.

In short: prevent first, then train.

Management reduces stress, creates clarity, and helps the dog experience success.

What you can do

Routine: a consistent order of potty breaks, meals, and rest can create predictability.
A safe place: many dogs relax when there’s a calm, predictable spot in the house just for them.
Preparation: prepair what you need in advance can keep departure moments calm.
Layout: household boundaries (a door or baby gate) can help keep situations simple.
Environment: choose routes and times that match your dog’s energy level and sensitivity to stimuli.
Gear: a well-fitting harness/ collar and a leash length that allows sniffing can reduce pace and tension.
Visitors: a consistent routine around people entering the home gives many dogs a sense of security.

Rest time and Health

Rest time means sleep, short naps, and calm moments without outside stimuli. During rest, the body recovers and the brain processes what happened earlier. Rest is just as important as training and exercise; without it, a dog cannot learn, recover, or truly relax.

Why this matters

The body recovers: muscles, joints, and the immune system get time to bounce back.
Stress goes down: heart rate and tension drop, and the dog settles again.
Learning improves: the brain consolidates what the dog has practiced.
Behavior becomes more stable: less reactivity—less pulling, barking, or nipping.
Overstimulation is prevented: the dog can process signals properly again.

What you can do

Balance: alternate activity and pauses; after busy moments, decompress first.
Create a resting spot: a quiet, predictable place at home (not in a walkway, minimal sights/sounds).
Agree on house rules: no one disturbs the resting spot; let visitors enter calmly.
Dial down stimuli: break sightlines (curtain/film), dampen noise, ration toys.
Routes and timing: choose spacious, calm places outside; sniffing counts as relaxation.
Soften transitions: a short wind-down from active to rest (water, sniffing, optional chew).
Check recovery: do breathing rate and muscle tension drop within a minute? If not, reduce stimuli further.
Protect sleep: enable daytime naps; ensure uninterrupted sleep at night.
Individualize: age, health, and temperament determine what works.
Unsure? Not settling: ask your vet to take a look and, if needed, involve a qualified trainer/physiotherapist/osteopath or canine massage therapist.

Etiquette Around Dogs

Dog etiquette means simple, unwritten courtesies that create calm, safety, and space—for dogs, people, and the surroundings. It’s not about strict rules, but about being considerate of each other and of what a dog needs.

Why this matters

It prevents misunderstandings and stress.
It makes encounters predictable and safe.
It builds trust between the dog, the handler, and the surroundings.

What you can do

No greetings with unfamiliar dogs — not on leash and not off-leash.
Space — give dogs and people personal space.
Choice — a dog is allowed to say no; follow the dog’s signals.
Calm over stimulation (everything the dog perceives in the environment): choose quiet routes and add pauses when it’s busy.
Read before you lead — observe body language and adjust your handling.
Management — leash, distance, pace, and situations are your responsibility.
Environmental care — keep areas clean; respect wildlife, livestock, and traffic.

Practical by situation

On the street

Keep the dog on a short leash in busy areas, narrow paths, and at crossings.

Dog–dog encounters

No dog–dog contact (not even off-leash).

Dog–human encounters

Ask: “May I pet your dog?” The owner decides.
Children are always supervised.

Off-leash areas/parks

Only off-leash where it’s allowed and safe, and only if recall is reliable.
Respect dogs on leash: give a wide arc and call your dog to you. Leash your dog when approaching a leashed dog.
Prevent your dog from sprinting at other dogs.

Nature and farmland

Leash where there’s wildlife or livestock; don’t encourage play or chasing.
Stay on paths; leave no traces or trash.

Socialization & Habituation

Socialization: learning to interact positively with people and animals through brief, pleasant encounters.

Habituation: getting used to the environment (traffic, sounds) without social interaction.

Why this matters

It prevents fear and increases resilience/reduces sensitivity to stress.
Your dog gains confidence.
Your dog stays calmer in busy or new situations.
Your dog learns what is normal and desired in everyday life.

What you can do

Let your dog calmly adjust to new sounds and situations.
Watch your dog’s signals and support them.
Give time and space to explore independently.
Be a calm, clear example yourself.

Safety & Prevention

Responsible Ownership is a shared effort: owners make good choices, and the environment encourages desired behavior. Municipalities and government can design that environment wisely, communicate clearly, and—where needed—enforce gently. Together, this reduces stress, nuisance, and bite incidents—and increases the enjoyment of both people and dogs in public spaces.

Why this matters

Fewer bite incidents and conflicts: clear rules and signage help people adjust in time.
More calm and safety in parks and streets: zoning and clean facilities prevent hassle.
Clear information for everyone: every resident knows what is and isn’t allowed.
Safer Kids & Dogs: lesson materials and agreements reduce risks at home and on playgrounds.
Fair, friendly enforcement: explanation first; residents feel seen and supported.
Better neighborhood collaboration: the municipality, dog schools, and residents work together.
Learn and adjust with data: reports and patterns inform targeted policy.
Quick wins with small steps: improving a single park shows immediate results.

What you can do

For municipalities and government:

Design smart spaces: create zones (off-leash, on-leash, dog-free).
Place signs where they’re most useful.
Facilities in order: provide enough trash bins and waste-bag dispensers; keep them clean.
Communicate clearly: short, plain-language texts, pictograms, a clear web page, and social updates.
Kids & Dogs: offer lesson materials to schools and playgrounds (ground rules, calm meet-ups).
Enforce kindly: start with explanation and a warning; step up enforcement when there’s repeat behavior or danger.
Work together: involve dog schools, veterinarians, family doctors, neighborhood teams, and residents in actions and pilots.
Use data: analyze reports and hotspots; adjust rules and layout accordingly.
Start small: pilot an approach in one park, measure results, and scale what works.
Accessibility matters: respect the rights of people with a service dog; provide clear information and calm routes.
Safe routes: well-lit paths and clear walking lines between dog areas and trash bins.

For residents and dog owners:

Follow the signs: off-leash where it’s allowed; on-leash where required.
Give other dogs and people space they need: choose distance and pace to fit the situation.
Give space: don’t let leashed dogs approach other dogs or people.
Choose calm: take breaks and pick quiet routes when it’s busy.
Respect signals of your dog: a dog is allowed to say “no.”
Clean up: keep streets, parks, and paths clean.
Kids & Dogs: always ask first before petting; keep interactions brief and calm.
Report problems respectfully: use the municipal reporting channel and help think about solutions.
Help each other: speak to one another kindly and set a good example.

Breed-Specific Traits

Breed-specific traits are tendencies more commonly seen in certain breeds, rooted in the work those breeds were originally developed to do.

Examples: herding (e.g., Border Collies), guarding/protection (Kangal), hunting (Beagles), as well as energy level, size, and coat care.

Note: the individual dog comes before breed traits.

Why this matters

By understanding breed-specific traits—and your dog’s individual predispositions—you can better predict behavior, guide well, and prevent problems.

Here’s what that can include:

Behavior and drive: herding (Border Collie), guarding/protection (Rottweiler), hunting (Beagle), retrieving (Retriever).
Energy level and stamina: how much activity and stimulation a dog enjoys.
Size and strength: what fits your lifestyle and home.
Coat and care: shedding, trimming, bathing.
Sensitivities: for example cold/heat, sound, working independently vs. preferring teamwork.

Every dog is an individual. Breed traits provide direction, not a fixed label. They help you choose suitable activities, training, and environments.

What you can do

Look at the background: the breed/breed group and the work it was originally bred to do.
Observe for a few days what your dog chooses to do on their own.
Note energy level, sensitivities, and how quickly they settle again.
Try three mini experiments: a simple search game, a small retrieve, and a thinking or tug game.
See what your dog enjoys most, and adjust your activities and routes accordingly.

Regulated "HR"-Breeds

We use “high-risk dog” as a policy label, not a judgment. It refers to dogs involved more often in severe bite incidents.

No dog is born dangerous: behaviour reflects many factors—breed tendencies, environment, socialisation, training, and everyday management.

Why this matters

More clarity and mutual respect—for owners, neighbours, and public spaces.
We focus on prevention to avoid bite incidents.
Accurate information reduces stigma: breed isn’t the whole story; daily handling and context matter.
With clear guidance, owners can choose the right support and training.

What you can do

Invest in socialisation, management, and guidance.
Learn your dog’s language (canine body language).
Always use strong, well-fitting gear (harness, lead).
Provide rest, predictability, and clear boundaries.
Avoid busy or unsafe situations.
Take classes with a qualified instructor who understands regulated/“high-risk” breeds.
Explain to others what your dog needs.

Kids & Dogs

It’s essential to teach children safe, respectful ways to be with dogs. Positive contact starts with calm, clear agreements and the dog’s freedom to choose. An adult is always present to supervise and guide.

Why this matters

Safety: you reduce the risk of misunderstandings and bite incidents.
Dog welfare: the dog gets rest, space, and choice.
Learning to read dog language: children recognise signals such as turning away, stiffening, and growling.
Clarity and boundaries: fixed agreements make contact predictable.
Be a good example: adults show what works (stay calm, wait, ask, brief petting).
It’s better to prevent than to fix: step in early and stop before things go wrong.
Enjoyment together: respectful behaviour builds trust and a positive bond.

What does supervision involve?

An adult is always watching.
Agreements: ask first, let the dog sniff, pet briefly, then stop.Do not disturb a dog that is sleeping, eating, or chewing; don’t take things away.
Give distance and breaks whenever there is tension.

IMPORTANT TO KNOW

Children: young children (<5 years) are bitten relatively most often. Many bites in children happen in or around the home and often by a familiar/family dog. (Sources: NHG Guideline “Traumatic wounds and bite wounds”; Nederlands Tijdschrift voor Geneeskunde, clinical lesson “Dog bites in children.”)

What you can do

An adult never leaves a child and a dog alone together.
Agree on simple rules for petting: ask first, let the dog come to you, pet briefly, then stop.
Leave the dog alone while it is eating, sleeping, or chewing.
Teach children that the dog’s toys belong to the dog: do not take them away.
Learn dog body language together.
Choose games that match the age and pace of both the child and the dog.
Do not let children go outside with the dog on their own; an adult goes along.

Recognizing Pain

Dogs often show pain less clearly than we think. Subtle changes in posture, movement, and behavior are usually the first signs. That’s why it’s important to stay alert to pain—even when no “obvious signs” are visible.

Why this matters

Welfare first: with pain, a dog cannot relax, learn, or play.
Safety: pain increases the chance of lunging or growling when touched.
Fair training: only when pain is ruled out can you judge behaviour fairly.
Faster recovery: the earlier you see it, the easier it is to treat.

Possible signs may include:

Posture & movement

Stiff when getting up; difficulty with stairs or jumping.
Arched back; tensing the back or belly; favouring a limb.
Reluctance to sit, lie down, or relieve itself.

Response to touch

Turning away, walking off, or reacting during brushing, petting, or lifting.
Lying on the sore spot so you can’t reach it.
Face & breathing
Panting without heat or exertion.
Smacking/licking (“tonguing”), “whale eye” (white of the eye visible), tight mouth corners.

Behaviour & mood

Less willing to walk/play; more irritable or, conversely, withdrawn.
Restless sleep; more sighing or trembling.

Coat & self-care

Dull patches; excessive licking/scratching in one spot.

Eating, urination, defecation

Reduced appetite or gulping food; changed peeing or pooping habits.

One sign alone does not prove pain. Always look at the whole picture and the context.

What you can do

Watch for small changes in posture, behaviour, and energy.
Combine signals: one sign isn’t enough—look at the whole picture.
Note when and how often you see signs (journal or photo/video).
Always consult a vet if in doubt.
Rule out medical causes before continuing training.
If needed, seek help from a qualified behaviourist or physiotherapist/osteopath/canine massage therapist.

Working Dogs

Working dogs are dogs trained to perform specific tasks, such as police dogs, search-and-rescue dogs, assistance dogs, or guard dogs.

Detection work: they are deployed to detect explosives, drugs, or to locate missing persons.
Assistance: assistance dogs help people with disabilities with daily tasks.
Police and security tasks: they are deployed as police dogs, for guarding, and in the military.

Why this matters

Schedule fixed rest periods alongside work tasks.
Guard boundaries: better short, clear tasks than tasks that are too long or too heavy.
Provide appropriate equipment (harness, lead, calm routes).
Read signals and step in early (increase distance, reduce stimuli).
Inform others: a working dog must not be distracted while on duty.
Invest in knowledge and training, so welfare and safety stay front and centre.

What you can do

Schedule fixed rest periods alongside work tasks.
Guard boundaries: better short, clear tasks than tasks that are too long or too heavy.
Provide appropriate equipment (harness, lead, calm routes).
Read signals and step in early (increase distance, reduce stimuli).
Inform others: a working dog must not be distracted while on duty.
Invest in knowledge and training, so welfare and safety stay front and centre.

Practicalities

Before you get a dog, it’s important to prepare well. That way you can prevent disappointment, heartache, and stress—for both you and the dog. Expectations and reality can be miles apart. Think carefully about what truly fits your household: the breed/temperament and energy level of the dog, your daily routine, the costs, and the space you live in.

What to pay attention to

Origin & Fit

Reputable breeder/rescue/re-homing organization (transparent about health, breed, behavior, and origin).
Type/breed, energy level, and size match your living situation, work, and experience.
Health information available: passport, microchip, vaccinations, and any test results.

Time & Daily Routine

Daily plan for enough walks, sniffing time, and rest.
Realistic alone-time (work/commute) with a solution for long days.
Agree who handles mornings/afternoons/evenings at home.

Training & Support

Enrolled in a puppy/basic course.
Contact with a trainer/behaviorist for questions.
Core basics: toilet training, being alone, designated rest spot.

Costs & Budget

Starter kit budgeted (harness, leash, bed, bowls, gate/pen, puzzle toys/chew toys).
Monthly budget for food, preventatives, insurance/care buffer, training.
Emergency fund or insurance for unexpected veterinary costs.

Health & Care

Chosen regular veterinarian (reachable for emergencies).
Plan for vaccinations/parasite prevention (tailored to your dog).
Insurance options compared and arranged if desired.

Home & Surroundings

Rest area in the house, agreements with housemates/children.
Check rental/HOA rules, neighbors, stairs/elevator, noise.
Know local rules: off-leash areas, leash laws, clean-up requirements.

Equipment

Well-fitting harness or collar and sturdy leash (no slip or prong collars).
Identification: microchip verified, tag with phone number.
Food & rewards, chew items, puzzle toys, waste bags, crate, gates.
Transport: crate/anchor in the car, seat-belt attachment or travel crate.

Travel & Scheduling

Sitter/dog-walking service known and planned for busy days.
Holiday solution (host family/boarding) tested/booked in advance.

Backup if You’re Unavailable (Essential)

Designated backup person (name/phone) who can take over in case of illness or death.
Short playbook (daily routine, food, medication, habits) shared on paper/online.
Optionally set out legally who will take the dog and how costs are covered.

Paperwork & Safety

Registration and ownership transfer arranged at purchase/adoption.
Liability insurance (household/owner) checked.
Emergency numbers in your phone and an ICE tag on the collar/in your wallet.

Health

Health covers both the physical and mental well-being of your dog: moving without pain, a healthy weight, proper nutrition and hydration, clean teeth, and a healthy skin and coat. Hormones, age, and sleep quality are part of this too. If a dog isn’t feeling well, you’ll often see it first in their behaviour.

Why this matters

Pain-free movement: prevents chronic stress and “problem behaviour”; a dog in pain is less eager to learn and play.
Energy & weight in balance: lowers the risk of injuries and illness, and keeps stamina and mood stable.
Nutrition & hydration: provide building blocks for muscles, brain, skin/coat, and keep energy steady.
Sleep quality: deep, undisturbed sleep restores body and brain; too little sleep makes dogs irritable.
Hormones & age: determine load capacity and recovery speed; tailoring activity prevents overexertion and setbacks.
Teeth, skin & coat: pain or itch constantly undermines well-being and often shows up as restless behaviour.
Early signs: nausea, itch, fatigue or pain are often seen first in behaviour—early action prevents escalation.
Prevention & check-ups: regular vet checks and parasite prevention keep small issues small.
Recovery after exercise: a gentle cool-down, water, and sniff-walks help prevent overload.
Sudden change in behaviour: often points to a physical (medical) cause.

What you can do

Quick body check (short, daily): run your hands over the body (muscle soreness, heat/swelling, cuts), check eyes/ears, mouth/breath odour, paw pads/nails, coat/itch.
Recognising pain signals: start-up stiffness, panting at rest, licking/scratching one spot, more easily startled, less willing to jump/play, restless sleep → first comfort & recovery, only then training.
Plan load ↔ recovery: build intensity in small steps; schedule rest days and do a cool-down after activity (short sniff-walk, water, then to the resting spot).
Safe movement at home: provide anti-slip (rugs on smooth floors), stable walking routes, steps/ramps where needed.
Track weight & fitness: match food amount to age/activity; feel ribs lightly under the skin, see a waist from above.
Nutrition & hydration: set fixed feeding times, clean water always available; spread portions around activity and rest.
Support sleep quality: avoid late-day overstimulation; create a night routine (toilet walk, water, to the regular spot).
Weather care: adjust duration and intensity in heat/cold; check asphalt temperature and wind/rain shelter; provide shade/warmth.
Parasites & teeth: prevention as advised, brush teeth/offer suitable chews, keep nails trimmed regularly.
Life-stage hacks:
- Puppy/young dog = short, frequent blocks with lots of recovery.
- Senior = shorter/more frequent movement, keep warm, do more body scans.
Hormones & cycle: note changes around heat/neutering; temporarily adjust load and stimuli.
Diary/score card: record rest, activity, stool, appetite, mood/pain signals; small trends become visible sooner.
Stop button: if in doubt or in pain → pause training, rest, and consult your vet/physiotherapist/osteopath or canine massage therapist.
First aid course: With a canine first-aid course you can provide quick, safe help in emergencies—from bleeding to breathing problems—so your dog stays stable until you reach the vet.

Grief

Grief isn’t only about death; it can also follow rehoming, divorce or shared ownership, illness, or a missing dog. Everyone grieves in their own way and at their own pace—there’s no right or wrong. What does help is acknowledging that sadness is normal when your life is so closely woven with your dog’s.

Why this matters

Unprocessed grief can seep into everyday life—affecting your energy levels, your relationships, and the bond with your (remaining) dog. By recognising grief and giving it space, calm can return—for you, your family, and your animal. That leads to more considered choices and helps prevent you from pushing yourself (or your dog) beyond your limits.

What you can do

Geef jezelf toestemming om te rouwen. Op jouw manier.
Maak het tastbaar. Een klein ritueel, herinneringsplek of fotomoment kan steun geven.
Praat erover.
Schrijf of verzamel herinneringen. Een kort dagboekje, een doosje met halsband/foto’s, een brief aan je hond.
Let op andere dieren in huis. Zij kunnen onrustig of teruggetrokken worden: bied extra voorspelbaarheid, rust en duidelijke grenzen.
Laat andere hond(en) afscheid nemen. Als het past bij jullie: laat ze even snuffelen aan een kleedje, favoriet item of – als dat kan en veilig voelt – kort bij het lichaam van de overleden hond, onder jouw rustige begeleiding. Observeer, dwing niets, geef daarna tijd en structuur.

Breeder

Your puppy’s background largely shapes their health, behaviour, and future. A good breeder has solid knowledge and genuine care for the breed (or cross) and continues to support you after the purchase. This helps prevent a lot of heartbreak, costs, and misunderstandings.

Why this matters

Health & lifespan: parent dogs are tested for breed-specific hereditary conditions; puppies get a solid start.
Temperament & socialisation: a stable mother, calm litter environment, and positive experiences build confidence. Ideally, the parent dogs have undergone a behavioural assessment.
Fair trade & animal welfare: no impulse purchases, no illegal imports or puppy farming. A good breeder uses a waiting list and expects you to visit multiple times.
Predictability & support: clear paperwork, aftercare, and a breeder who actively thinks along with you—offering clear, practical advice.
Less problem behaviour: a good start reduces the risk of stress, fear, and bite incidents. Good socialisation begins with the breeder.

What can you do

Orientation

Start with the breed club/foundation and talk to experienced owners.
Visit multiple addresses. Don’t go “to look and buy” straight away; take time to gather information first.

Ask targeted questions

See and meet the mother; ask for proof/results for the father.
Ask about breed-relevant health tests (e.g., hips/elbows/eyes/DNA) and the inbreeding coefficient.

Look carefully around

Homely, clean environment.
A maximum of two litters at a time and a maximum of two breeds. More breeds is a red flag: breeding even one breed carefully is intensive.
Puppies are raised in the home, with everyday sounds and regular human contact.

Age & legal requirements

A puppy never leaves before 8 weeks.
Imported puppies only after 15 weeks (due to the rabies vaccination).

Paperwork in order

Sales contract, EU pet passport, microchip, and registration in your name after purchase.
Vaccinations and deworming are correct and traceable in the passport (with the vet’s stamp/details).
Pedigree or proof of origin is complete and verifiable.
Deworming around 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks; first puppy vaccination around 6 weeks (as recorded in the passport).

Socialisation plan

The breeder can show what the puppies have already experienced (sounds, people, materials) and provides a plan for the coming weeks.
You can turn to the breeder with all your questions; they’ll help you find a suitable puppy class/school.
You receive clear feeding information and a starter supply of the food the puppy is used to.

Finally: it should also feel right

A good breeder is caring, wants the best for the dog, and is genuinely interested in you and your living situation.
Expect lots of questions for you—someone who isn’t interested in you often shows little commitment to the puppies.